Sugar Cube Scrubs

I love making bath products and I especially love the challenge of replicating/improving some of the items I see in the stores.  Recently I brought a great item at LUSH - a single use sugar scrub.   These little scrubs are fun to use and they smell like heaven!    There were only two drawbacks - the scrubs dissolve too fast so that the minute the scrub hit the water it dissolved and ran through my fingers AND the LUSH product contains baking soda and cream of tartar which stings a little when using the scrub after shaving my legs.  I did a little research and found some other recipes for single use sugar cube scrubs.  I tried a few that only used oils, cocoa butter and sugar but those recipes proved to be too rough when using on the skin.  Many of the recipes included melt and pour soap base as a binder and, even though I don’t want the scrub to become soap-like, I decided to give it a try.  It has taken quite a bit of experimentation and tweaking to make a final formula.  This is the process of developing the recipe for a single use sugar scrub.

Beginning Recipe:

• Soap
• Cocoa Butter
• Sugar
• Fragrance (I did two scents for spring: a refreshing lemongrass/coconut and a tart blackcurrent)
• Color (green for the lemongrass and coconut; pink for the blackcurrent)
• Jojoba

After mixing up the ingredients, the mixture was poured into a silicone bite size brownie pan and left for about an hour to firm up.  After unmolding the squares, I cut each into 4 cubes.   This batch set beautifully and looked and smelled amazing; however, when I tried to use them in the shower there proved to be too much soap and the cube did not dissolve in the water properly. Overall, it felt too harsh and didn’t really lather.

The melt and pour soap base should have added enough bubbles, however, with all the oils I added to make the scrub moisturizing  the overall lather was diminished.   I decided to add a surfactant called sodium lauroyl lactylate.  Sodium lauroyl lactylate is derived from milk and coconut oil and it is a safe, skin-friendly cleanser for both skin and hair.  I love it because it removes oil, dirt and bacteria without drying or irritating skin.  And it adds a TON of bubbles.   Vegetable Glycerin is a natural humectant that will draw moisture to the skin without having to use oil - so I added some.  In the end, I threw in some emulsifying wax in the hopes it would bind the mixture together better.

Rebatch 1

• Soap
• Cocoa Butter
• Sugar
• Fragrance (I did two scents for spring: a refreshing lemongrass/coconut and a tart blackcurrent)
• Color (green for the lemongrass and coconut; pink for the blackcurrent)
• Jojoba Oil

• Sodium lauroyl lactylate (a surfactant that adds lather to the product)
• Glycerin
• Emuslfying Wax (binds water and oil combinations)

This batch never set properly  and stayed too “wet” and oily to be practical.  However, it was great for use – it had a ton of lather and it felt smooth on the skin; not harsh at all.  Plus my skin felt so soft after using the scrub.  But look at that picture - there is no way I could pack these melty cubes up.  

Because the scrub worked well, the next formula is only tweaked a bit.  Natrasorb Bath is a modified starch that is designed to absorb excess oil and leave the skin feeling soft and silky.  Even better, when the starch comes into contact with water, it immediately dissolves which releases its load of oils and fragrances directly into the warm water.

  A few scoops will help to firm up the cubes. A little amount of clay was added to provide a slippery feel to the scrub when applied to the skin. 

Rebatch 2:

• Soap
• Cocoa Butter
• Sugar
• Fragrance (I did two scents for spring: a refreshing lemongrass/coconut and a tart blackcurrent)
• Color (green for the lemongrass and coconut; pink for the blackcurrent)
• Jojoba Oil

• Sodium lauroyl lactylate (a surfactant that adds lather to the product)
• Glycerin
• Natrasorb Bath

I just packed the mixture with a ton of Natrasorb and extra white sugar.  In fact, the resulting mixture was crumbly in texture - not pourable like the original soap mixture.  The dough was packed into the brownie pan (much like you would do with the bath bombs) and left for about an hour to set.  They popped out of the mold nicely and I cut about half of them into quarters, while leaving the other half to be a larger size scrub.  The finishing touch was a light coat of corn starch to keep the cubes dry .
I am very happy with the final product!  

But now I am not sure I needed the melt and pour base after all.  If anyone wants a creamy sugar scrub in a convenient single use cube - let me know.